March 2016 -

Badshahi Mosque

Exploring the Magnificence of the Badshahi Mosque in Lahore Unveiling the Grandeur of Lahore’s Crown Jewel The Badshahi Mosque, Lahore’s crown jewel, held the title of the world’s largest mosque for an impressive 313 years, spanning from 1673 to 1986. This glorious mosque was commissioned during the reign of the sixth Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb. This majestic structure stands as a testament to Mughal-era architecture. Even though it was constructed during the late Mughal period—a time marked by relative decline. This mosque encapsulates the beauty, passion, and grandeur of the Mughal era in Lahore. Beyond its religious significance, the mosque has witnessed several transformations. It served as a garrison for the armies of Ranjit Singh and the British troops after the fall of the Mughal Empire. Today, it ranks as the second-largest mosque in Pakistan and South Asia, and the fifth-largest in the world, with the capacity to accommodate nearly 150,000 worshippers within its hallowed grounds. A Glimpse of Its Location Situated on the outskirts of the Walled City of Lahore, the Badshahi Mosque’s imposing presence faces the Alamgiri Gate of Lahore Fort, another architectural marvel built by Aurangzeb. Only the Hazuri Bagh separates these two magnificent edifices. To the south of the Hazuri Bagh lies the Roshni Gate, one of the thirteen gates that once guarded the Walled City. Interestingly, the Hazuri Bagh doubled as a parade ground where Aurangzeb would review his troops and courtiers. Unveiling the History The iconic Badshahi Mosque owes its existence to the last Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb, also known as Alamgir, which translates to “conqueror of the world.” This marvel of architecture was constructed in a mere two years, from 1671 to 1673. Although its design bears some resemblance to Delhi’s Jama Mosque, the Badshahi Mosque dwarfs its counterpart in size and grandeur. On a clear day, its impressive silhouette can be admired from a distance of approximately 15 kilometers (about 10 miles). Unlike his artistic predecessors, Aurangzeb prioritized military conquests over art and architecture during his rule. The construction of the Badshahi Mosque was driven by military objectives. Particularly, his campaign against the Indian warrior king of the Maratha clan, Shivaji Bhonsle. The construction project nearly depleted the Mughal treasury and weakened the empire itself. To safeguard the mosque from the Ravi River’s seasonal floods, it was built on an elevated plinth six meters above ground level. The responsibility for overseeing this monumental project fell upon Aurangzeb’s foster brother, Muzaffar Hussain (Fidai Khan Koka), who was also appointed as its governor. Art and Architecture The Badshahi Mosque’s architectural layout is a square, with each side spanning 170 meters. Due to its proximity to the Ravi River, a gate leading to the riverside could not be erected, resulting in an asymmetrical design with no southern gate. The mosque’s construction incorporates a combination of red stone and white marble inlay, setting it apart from the typical architectural style of mosques in Lahore. The design draws inspiration from Indo-Greek, Central Asian, and Indian architectural influences. Above the vaulted entrance, inlaid marble proudly displays the full name of the Badshahi Mosque: “Masjid Abul Zafar Muhy-ud-Din Mohammad Alamgir Badshah Ghazi.” Accessible via a staircase with 22 steps leading from Hazuri Bagh, the main entrance opens into a vast courtyard measuring 528 feet by 528 feet, capable of accommodating up to 100,000 worshippers simultaneously. The courtyard is divided into two levels—the upper and lower, where funeral prayers are also conducted. At its center lies a 50-foot by 50-foot, 3-foot deep central tank. Chamber The chamber directly above the mosque’s entrance gate once housed relics attributed to the Holy Prophet Muhammad (PBUH), His daughter, and His son-in-law. This chamber features Muqarna, an architectural feature in Islamic architecture characterized by ornamented vaulting It was first introduced in the nearby Wazir Khan Mosque. Prayer Hall The main prayer hall measures 275 feet by 83 feet by 50 feet in height. It features a central arched niche and five smaller niches, each one-third the size of the main niche. The mosque is crowned with three marble domes, with the central dome boasting a diameter of 65 feet at the base (70 feet at its bulging point), a height of 49 feet, a pinnacle rising to 24 feet, and a 15-foot high neck. The two side domes measure 51 feet 6 inches in diameter (54 feet 2 inches at their bulging point), with a height of 32 feet, a pinnacle reaching 19 feet, and a 9-foot 6-inch high neck. Interior The interior of the mosque, including its ceiling, is adorned with intricate floral frescoes, stucco tracery, and inlaid marble. On the exterior, meticulous stone carvings and marble inlays embellish the sandstone surface. The mosque’s capacity enables it to host up to 10,000 worshippers at once, with side chambers reserved for religious instruction. The mosque boasts four primary three-story octagonal minarets crafted from red stone and crowned with marble canopies. Each minaret soars to a height of 196 feet from its respective corner. Its outer circumference of 67 feet and its inner circumference of 8 feet 6 inches. Accessible by a staircase comprising 204 steps, these minarets accentuate the mosque’s grandeur. Additionally, the main mosque building features four smaller minarets, one at each corner. Transformations Through Sikh and British Eras The mosque’s grandeur suffered during Ranjit Singh’s rule, as his army seized Lahore in 1799. The main courtyard was repurposed as a stable, while the Hujras (cells) housed his soldiers. Nearby Hazuri Bagh was converted into the official Royal Court. Around 20 years later, a moderate earthquake struck, causing the marble turrets atop each minaret to collapse. These open minarets were then repurposed as gun emplacements during the Sikh Civil War in 1841, led by Ranjit Singh’s son Sher Singh. The adjacent Lahore Fort was under siege by supporters of Sikh Maharani Chand Kaur. The fort endured heavy bombardment, resulting in significant damage to the Dewan Aam (Hall of the Public Audience). Sikhs restricted Muslim access to the mosque for worship, designating only a small

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Rohtas Fort

Rohtas Fort: History and Architecture at Heights Rohtas Fort, also known as Qila Rohtas, stands as an iconic symbol of military ingenuity and architectural brilliance in Punjab, Pakistan. Nestled in the Tilla Jogian Range on the Pothohar Plateau, this UNESCO World Heritage Site (since 1997) is a masterpiece of early Muslim military architecture in Central and South Asia. Its robust design, sprawling walls, and intricate gateways have earned it a place among the most remarkable historical sites in the region. Location and Setting Strategically positioned 91.5 meters (300 feet) above its surroundings, Rohtas Fort is perched on a hill overlooking the confluence of the Kahān River and the seasonal Parnal Khas stream. The fort rises to an elevation of 819 meters (2,687 feet) above sea level, covering an impressive 70 hectares (170 acres). Just 16 kilometers northwest of Jhelum, it lies near the historic Grand Trunk Road, a vital trade route connecting Afghanistan to the plains of Punjab. A Glimpse into History The Vision of Sher Shah Suri (Sur Period) Following his victory over Mughal Emperor Humayun in 1541, Sher Shah Suri commissioned the construction of Rohtas Fort to consolidate his power and thwart a potential Mughal resurgence. Tasked with suppressing the pro-Mughal Ghakkar tribe, the fort was designed to be both an impregnable fortress and a statement of authority. Despite initial resistance from the local populace, construction progressed under the supervision of Todar Mal, a Punjabi Khatri minister. The fort’s architectural blend of Persian, Afghan, and local influences reflects Sher Shah’s vision for an enduring legacy. Mughal Period After Sher Shah’s death, the fort’s strategic significance dwindled. It was ceded to Humayun in 1555, who used it briefly before his empire shifted focus to more ornate structures like the nearby Attock Fort. While Emperor Akbar and Jahangir rested at Rohtas during their travels, its plain military style was less appealing to the Mughals, who preferred structures adorned with gardens and elaborate designs. Sikh Empire and British Era In 1825, the fort fell under the control of the Sikh Empire, with Gurmukh Singh Lamba capturing it from Nur Khan, a Ghakkar chief. It served as an administrative hub during the Sikh reign until the British annexed the Punjab region in 1849. Architectural Marvels of Rohtas Fort Main Fortifications The fort’s defensive walls stretch over 4 kilometers, enclosing an area capable of housing 30,000 soldiers. Rising between 10 to 18 meters in height and 10 to 13 meters in thickness, the walls feature 68 bastions, 1,900 battlements, and 12 monumental trap gates. Inner Citadel A secondary wall 533 meters long divides the inner citadel from the rest of the fort. Structures like Haveli Man Singh, Shahi Mosque, Baolis (stepped wells), and the Rani Mahal add historical depth to the citadel’s interior. Notable Structures Haveli Man Singh Constructed between 1550 and 1614, this prominent structure reflects Hindu architectural elements and offers commanding views of the surroundings. Rani Mahal The Rani Mahal, near Haveli Man Singh, was once a four-room structure, now reduced to a single room with visible foundations. Shahi Mosque Located near the Kabuli Gate, this modest yet ornate mosque is one of the most decorated buildings within the fort. Baolis (Stepped Wells) The fort features three Baolis—Main Baoli, Shahi Baoli, and Sar Gate Baoli—essential for water storage during sieges. The Gates of Rohtas FortRohtas Fort is renowned for its 12 intricately designed gates, each with unique historical and architectural significance: Sohail Gate: Named after Saint Sohail Bukhari, this gate showcases exemplary masonry from Sher Shah’s time. Shah Chandwali Gate: Honoring Saint Shah Chandwali, this gate connects the citadel to the main fort. Kabuli Gate: Facing west towards Kabul, this double gate opens to a width of 3.15 meters. Shishi Gate: Distinguished by its glazed tile embellishments, representing an early example of this technique. Langar Khani Gate: A double gate leading to a Langar Khana (Mess hall or Canteen). Talaqi Gate: Named after “Talaq” (divorce), as legend has it Prince Sabir Suri’s entry through this gate was ill-fated. Mori or Kashmiri Gate: Opening northward, it’s aptly named for its orientation towards Kashmir. Khwas Khani Gate: An ode to Khwas Khan, one of Sher Shah Suri’s most prominent generals. Gatali Gate: Facing the village of Gatali, it served as a vital crossing point for the River Jhelum to the Kashmir Valley. Tulla Mori Gate: Located on the eastern side, it’s more of an entrance than a gate, featuring a bastion. Pipalwala Gate: Resembling the Tulla Mori Gate, it’s a small entrance. Sar Gate: Known as “Sar (water),” this gate includes a small entrance with a bastion and a Baoli adjacent to it. Modern-Day Preservation Despite centuries of exposure, much of Rohtas Fort remains well-preserved. Restoration efforts have focused on key areas like the Chandwali Gate, which was recently rebuilt. However, natural erosion and neglect have caused some damage, such as the partial collapse of the Talaqi and Gatali Gates. Visitor Information Easily accessible at 16km northwest of Jhelum, and 8 km south of Grand Trunk Road makes it a convenient stop for travelers exploring the region. Rohtas Fort is a must-visit for history enthusiasts and architecture lovers. Plan Your Visit Rohtas Fort’s rich history and breathtaking vistas make it a destination that blends culture, history, and natural beauty. Whether you’re tracing the footsteps of emperors or marveling at ancient craftsmanship, the fort offers an unforgettable experience. Nearby Attractions Maqbara Khair un Nisa Tilla Jogian Forts in Pakistan Baltit Fort Altit Fort Red Fort Muzaffarabad Lahore Fort Kot Diji Fort Derawar Fort

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Ketas Raj Temples

Unveiling the Mystical History and Temples of Ketas Raj: A Spiritual Journey Ketas Raj is a complex of ancient Hindu Temples nestled at an altitude of 2,000 feet above sea level. The temples are situated near the Chakwal district in the Potohar region of Pakistan. Ketas Raj, also known as Qilla Ketas, orniginally is a sacred pilgrimage site steeped in history and spirituality. The Mystical History of Ketas Raj: Legends and Myths Ketas Raj holds a history that dates back to the days of the Mahabharata, approximately 300 BC. According to legend, it was created from the tears of the Hindu god Shiva upon the death of his wife, Satti. These divine tears formed two holy ponds, with Ketas pond being one of them. The word “Ketas” itself is derived from Sanskrit, meaning “raining eyes.” Another captivating myth connects the Pandava brothers, who are believed to have spent four years of their 14-year exile here. In fact, the sacred lake within the complex is said to possess magical powers. It is the very place where Yudhisthira, one of the Pandavas, defeated a Yaksha using his wisdom to resurrect his brothers. Yet another variation of the legend involves the demise of Shiva’s horse, Katas, instead of Satti, his partner, adding further intrigue to the site’s mythology. Exploring the Temples of Ketas Raj: Architectural Marvels and Historical Significance Katas Raj encompasses a cluster of seven ancient temples, remnants of a Buddhist Stupa, medieval temples, Havelis, and recently constructed temples, all centered around a revered pond. This pond was once enclosed by a fort, temples, bathhouses, and rest houses. Among the structures, the oldest is a Buddhist Stupa, with its base still standing after more than 2000 years. The Chinese traveler Hieun Tsang visited Ketas in the early 7th century AD. Hieun highlighted the presence of an ancient fort surrounding the complex. The fortification wall remains mostly intact, with Sikh Raja Hari Singh Nalwa having constructed a palace by the pond. Although the palace is now in ruins, it still houses colorful depictions of Hindu deities. At the highest point of Ketas Raj, three temples stand tall. In fact, the Kala Mandar temple, over fifteen centuries old, is a testament to ancient craftsmanship. Likewise, the central temple, the largest of them all, features three stories and a narrow staircase leading to a rooftop with breathtaking views of the Ketas complex and the surrounding salt range. These Hindu Temples of Ketas were constructed during the Hindu Shahi Period and share architectural similarities with temples in Malot and Shiv Danga. Spiritual Significance and Visitors: A Place of Pilgrimage and Reverence Ketas Raj has been a sacred pilgrimage site for people of various faiths. Thousands of Hindus visit every April to partake in ritualistic baths in the holy pool, believing it purifies them of sins and aids in attaining salvation. Guru Nanak Dev Ji, the founder of the Sikh faith, also visited the temple in the early 1800s. The Haveli of Hari Singh Nalwa, a renowned general in Ranjit Singh’s army, lies adjacent to Ram’s temple. Additionally, the famous Muslim scholar Al-Beruni spent time studying Hinduism in this very temple. Most of these temples were constructed over 900 years ago, during the reign of Hindu kings, although some date back to the latter half of the 6th century AD. Accessing Ketas Raj: Location and Visiting Details Ketas Raj is located in the village of Ketas, off Choa Sadan Shah. It is beyond the main bazaar in the Chakwal district of Punjab, Pakistan. It is approximately 160 kilometers from Islamabad and is easily accessible via the road to Choa Sadan Shah from the Kalar Kahar interchange on the Islamabad–Lahore motorway (M2). Visiting Information: Timings and Entry Fees Katas Raj Temples are open for visitors from 09:00 AM to 05:00 PM and entry is free, with no tickets required. Ketas Raj stands as a testament to ancient history, spirituality, and architectural brilliance. It continues to draw visitors of various backgrounds who seek solace, spiritual enlightenment, and a glimpse into a bygone era. Plan your visit to Ketas Raj to experience the magic and mystique of this timeless treasure.

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Baltit Fort

Baltit Fort: Tibetan-Influenced Architectural Marvel Perched with a commanding view upon the moraine of Ultar Glacier, Baltit Fort stands as a testament to history. It offers a jaw-dropping vista of Hunza Valley and its intricate network of tributaries. This architectural gem, boasting over 700 years of history, was originally constructed as both a defensive stronghold and a symbol of authority by the rulers of Hunza. Today, it has transformed into a cultural center and museum. The fort is recognized globally and has secured numerous international awards. A Tale of Two States In a historical landscape where mountain kingdoms reigned supreme, Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral were comprised of several small independent states. The Mirs, known as Thumo in Hunza and Nager, ruled their respective state. Notably, Hunza and Nagar, two major principalities separated only by the Hunza River, engaged in frequent clashes, fortifying their power with imposing strongholds. The chronicles of history reveal that the early Hunza rulers inhabited the Altit Fort, but a fierce conflict between the two sons of Mir Sultan, Shah Abbas (Shabos) and Ali Khan (Aliqan), led to their separation. Shabos, the elder son, relocated to Baltit Fort, ultimately solidifying its position as the epicenter of Hunza’s power. In the early 15th century, Ayasho II, Mir of Hunza at the time, forged a matrimonial alliance by marrying Princess Shah Khatoon from Baltistan, a region often likened to little Tibet. The princess brought with her a retinue of skilled craftsmen who orchestrated significant architectural modifications in both Altit Fort and Baltit Fort, creating a harmonious fusion of Tibetan and local architectural influences that still resonate in these structures today. The fortified village of Baltit, once known as “Agaai Koot” or the Heavenly Fort, and the nearby Altit, initially referred to as Hunokushal (derived from “Huns”), witnessed a linguistic evolution as Balti craftsmen introduced terms like “Elte” and “Delte” to denote “Here” and “There.” These linguistic nuances gave birth to the names Altit and Baltit, etching their place in history. Turbulence and Transformation The 19th century brought turmoil as the Maharaja of Kashmir launched attacks, followed by the British invasion in 1891. These incursions inflicted partial damage to the fort’s architecture and ushered in political upheaval in Hunza. In a daring move, Mir Safdar Ali Khan and Wazir Dadu, along with their families and supporters, sought political asylum in Kashghar. The British, in their pursuit of strategic control, reshaped the forts according to their defense needs. They dismantled the fortified walls and watchtowers of the old Baltit village and Baltit Fort. Additionally, they imposed their governance by appointing Mir Mohammad Nazim Khan as the ruler of the Hunza state. Subsequent alterations by Mir Mohammad Nazim Khan included demolishing several third-floor rooms and adding new ones, lending the fort a British colonial aesthetic with lime wash and colorful glass panel windows. These changes remained largely unchanged until the fort’s eventual restoration. Architectural Marvel Baltit Fort is a remarkable wooden pegged stone structure adorned with mud plaster. Its interior boasts exquisite woodcarvings that have since become a hallmark of architectural finesse. The three-story edifice perches gracefully on a moraine, affording breathtaking vistas of the valley below. The basement of the fort houses granaries and storage rooms, supported by narrow man-made terraces that safeguard its ancient foundations. Ascending to the first floor reveals the main kitchen, a winter guestroom, a spacious winter house, a private meeting room, guardrooms, and additional storage spaces, all interconnected for seamless functionality. The second floor graces visitors with living quarters, a balcony adorned with bay windows, and a magnificent open terrace, crowned by a Moghul-style wooden canopy sheltering a regal throne. This vantage point offers awe-inspiring views of the Hunza and Nagar valleys. Moreover, the scenery of iconic Rakaposhi, Diran Peak, Golden Peak, Ultar, and the Lady Finger is simply breathtaking. The fort’s third floor hosts a modest mosque and a guard shelter tucked away in the corner, completing the architectural splendor. Restoration and Renewal The fort was vacated by the local Mir family in 1945 and it remained abandoned for years, succumbing to decay. Concerned authorities contemplated its rehabilitation. Mir Gazanfar Ali Khan II, a descendant of the ruling Mirs of Hunza, made a momentous decision by gifting the fort to the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. This charitable organization embarked on a restoration project in 1989. Getty Grant Program (USA), the Norwegian Agency for Development Cooperation, and the French Authorities donated to the restoration project. The restoration efforts culminated in 1996, meticulously reviving the fort’s former glory. The restoration work was executed with such precision that it recaptured the fort’s bygone grandeur. The Mirs lost their power in 1974 as a result of the accession of princely states to the mainland. The Baltit Fort is serving as a museum now—a beacon of preserved culture for generations to come. Access and Appreciation Baltit Fort, nestled in Karimabad (Baltit), was once the capital of District Hunza. The fort is accessible via the Karakoram Highway (KKH), approximately 100 kilometers north of Gilgit, the capital of Northern Areas, Pakistan. The fort commands a panoramic view of the entire Hunza-Nagar region, making it easily discernible from the Karakoram Highway. Visiting Hours: Summer: 09:00 to 17:30 hrs (April 1st to Oct 30th) Winter: 09:30 to 16:00 hrs (November 1st to March 31st) Dining Amidst History In homage to the legacy of former Hunza state rulers, who hosted elaborate dinners and musical soirees at Baltit Fort, it is now possible to arrange a dinner with light music for groups of a minimum of eight guests. This unique dining experience features traditional dishes crafted from local organic produce, including dried apricots and the oil extracted from apricots, walnuts, and almonds. A Legacy of Awards Baltit Fort’s cultural significance and meticulous restoration have not gone unnoticed, earning it a cascade of prestigious awards: Grand Award to Aga Khan Cultural Services (AKCSP) in 1997 for “Restoration and Re-use of the Baltit Fort” by PATA (Pacific Asia Travel Association). British Airways Tourism for Tomorrow Global Award

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