Forts in Gilgit-Baltistan

Ondra Poygah
Gilgit-Baltistan

Ondra Poygah

Gilgit-Baltistan

Ondra Poygah: Longest Staircase to a Cultural Marvel Nestled in the breathtaking landscape of Upper Hunza, the Ondra Poygah trail is a tribute to human perseverance, community spirit, and cultural preservation. This remarkable track, created during the winter of 2020/2021, serves as both a historical landmark and a pioneering venture aimed at promoting eco-tourism and adventure tourism in Gilgit-Baltistan. What is Ondra Poygah? The name “Ondra Poygah” combines the historical significance of Ondra Fort and the Wakhi word “Poygah,” meaning staircase. This project, conceived and executed by the dedicated people of Gulmit, transforms the climb to the ancient fort into a trail of cultural and scenic wonder. With 1655 stairs, this extraordinary staircase is the longest and highest in Pakistan, stretching approximately 4 kilometers and gaining an elevation of 1560 meters. The trail begins at the Gulmit Polo Ground and ends at the site of the ancient Ondra Fort, offering a captivating journey through history and nature. A Community-Driven Endeavor Ondra Poygah stands as a shining example of community collaboration. With no external funding or advanced machinery, over 200 volunteers from Gulmit worked tirelessly to construct the trail during the freezing winter months, when temperatures plummeted to -15°C. Men’s Role: Volunteers cut and blasted rock manually, dividing the tasks into manageable sections under the supervision of elders. Teams for management, finance, and marketing ensured seamless execution. Women’s Role: Around 30-40 women provided essential support by delivering fresh, home-cooked meals, tea, and snacks to the workers, braving harsh weather conditions to sustain the community effort. This project was not just about building a staircase; it was about bringing the community together, celebrating their heritage, and creating something remarkable for generations to come. Historical Roots of Ondra Poygah The origins of Ondra Poygah date back centuries. The Ondra Fort, now in ruins, once served as a strategic lookout point for the rulers of Hunza. In ancient times, peaks like Ondra were essential for monitoring enemy movements and organizing defenses. The tradition of “Poygah” became a way to train young men for physical endurance and foster unity within the community. Though the fort no longer stands, the newly constructed trail keeps its memory alive, linking the past with the present. Breathtaking Location and Scenic Views Situated atop a hillock, the Ondra Poygah trail offers 360-degree panoramic views of Gulmit and its surrounding wonders. To the south lies the serene Attabad Lake, while to the north, the trail is framed by the majestic Passu Cones, Borith Lake, and the Batura Range. The east and west reveal the grandeur of the Karakoram Mountain Range and the Hunza River, respectively. From the summit, trekkers can enjoy iconic sights such as the Passu Cones, Sheshper Peak, Gulmit Tower, and the charming Ghulkin Village. Seasonal Splendor One of the most enchanting aspects of the Ondra Poygah trail is its transformation through the seasons: Spring: A burst of pink and white as cherry, apricot, and almond blossoms adorn the valleys. Summer: A lush green landscape that brings life to the surrounding terrain. Autumn: A vibrant palette of orange, yellow, and red, showcasing nature’s artistry. Winter: A serene white blanket of snow, offering a peaceful and magical ambiance. Why Visit Ondra Poygah? Adventure and Eco-Tourism: A thrilling trek combined with a sustainable approach to tourism. Cultural Heritage: A tribute to the rich history of the Upper Hunza region and the resilience of its people. Unparalleled Views: A feast for the eyes with stunning vistas of mountains, lakes, and valleys. Community Spirit: A chance to experience firsthand the unity and hospitality of the Wakhi people. A Legacy of Strength and Unity The Ondra Poygah trail is more than a tourist attraction; it is a living symbol of the resilience, hard work, and creativity of the people of Gulmit. As a blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, this trail is a must-visit destination for travelers seeking adventure and meaningful connections with the heritage of Gilgit-Baltistan. Plan Your Visit Whether you’re an avid trekker, a history enthusiast, or simply someone seeking serenity in nature, the Ondra Poygah trail offers an experience like no other. Explore this hidden gem in the heart of Hunza and witness the unparalleled beauty and spirit of one of Pakistan’s most iconic regions. How to Reach Ondra Poygah Ondra Poygah trail starts from the polo ground in the Gulmit Valley, approximately 130 km from Gilgit and 30 km from Karimabad along the Karakoram Highway. Public transport and private vehicles can be used to reach the site. Nearby Attractions Ondra Poygah is situated in a region renowned for its scenic beauty. Visitors can combine their trip with other nearby attractions: Haldikish Attabad Lake Borith Lake Afsang View Point Hussaini Suspension Bridge Passu Glacier Rainbow Adventure Bridge Batura Glacier Passu Cones Gircha Mosque Khunjerab Pass

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Altit Fort Hunza
Forts, Gilgit-Baltistan

Altit Fort

Forts, Gilgit-Baltistan

Altit Fort: A Journey Through History and Architecture In the mountain valley of Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, stands a true marvel of history and architecture, the awe-inspiring Altit Fort. The fort is perched majestically on a 1000-foot towering cliff rising sharply from the Hunza River. This 900-year-old fort has witnessed centuries of dynastic rule, and cultural transformations. The award-winning Altit Fort now stands as a testament to the rich heritage of the region. Its historic background, architectural marvels, and restoration efforts make Altit Fort a must-visit destination. Historic Background Before becoming a part of Pakistan in 1974, Gilgit-Baltistan was a patchwork of independent princely states, with the kingdom of Hunza being one of them. The local Mirs, hereditary rulers of Hunza, held sway until 1974. However, the socio-political reforms stripped them of their power during the reign of Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto. Altit Fort, which had once served as their palace, found itself in a state of disrepair. Later, the Aga Khan Foundation took over its renovation in 1990. The village of Altit, founded in the 11th century, was the oldest settlement and the capital of Hunza. It was then called Altit Khun and served as the capital of Hunza. Its name evolved from “Hunokushal” to “Burushal” as the region’s culture shifted from the Turkic Huns to Burushaski speakers, who later converted to Islam in the 15th century. The Power Struggle According to historical accounts, the rulers of Hunza first resided in the Altit Fort. The rivalry between two royal brothers, Prince Shah Abbas (Shabos) and Prince Ali Khan (Aliqan), marked a pivotal moment in the fort’s history. Shah Abbas relocated to Baltit Fort, making it the new seat of power, while Prince Ali Khan fortified Altit Fort. With the capital shifted to Baltit, Altit Fort began to lose its significance. Prince Ali Khan made Altit Fort his stronghold and launched offensives against his elder brother. Tragically, this conflict ended with Prince Ali Khan’s death. Balti Craftsmanship When Princess Shah Khatoon from Baltistan was married to Mir Ayaaho II of Hunza in the early fifteenth century, she was accompanied by craftsmen as a dowry. The Balti craftsmen carried out significant amendments to the fort with a Tibetan touch in its design. During their stay in Hunza, they used two Balti words to refer to the two forts “Elte” and “Delte” to say “here” and “there”. Later, the term Elte became Altit, and Delte was modified to Baltit as both valleys are famously known today. The fort was purposefully built by the ruling family of Hunza as a display of power, to defend Hunza from external attacks, and to safeguard the predominant feudal system. Altit Fort has undergone several ups and downs before it was abandoned. It has been dexterously renovated and serves as a tourist attraction. Currently, the fort houses a museum, a culture center, and the offices of a successful Social Enterprise. Architecture Altit Fort is a masterpiece of architectural ingenuity. Built over 800 years ago, its construction occurred in six distinct stages. The initial phase saw the construction of a two-floor building on the lower western edge, followed by a three-floor watchtower, a storage space, a mosque, grain storage on the eastern side, and the conversion of grain storage into guest rooms. Narrow corridors lead to the lower-level rooms, while the upper ones connect to the watchtower. The fort’s main entrance, facing Ultar, leads through a dimly lit corridor on the ground floor. It reveals a rectangular supporting structure with a haunting history. Legend has it that a prince who was suspected of plotting against his kingdom was buried here in a standing position. The first-floor royal kitchen boasts intricate carvings, surrounded by the lobby, a multipurpose traditional royal room, the queen’s room, and rubble stone masonry. The watchtower is strategically positioned to oversee the land. It offers a 360-degree view and was even used for executing prisoners sentenced to death. The mosque, royal throne, and guest rooms are situated to the north of the tower, while the storage space lies to the south. The royal throne, in front of the mosque, provides a panoramic view of Altit Khun. Restoration Altit Fort, once in a state of disrepair, was donated to the Aga Khan Trust for Culture Historic Cities Support Program in 2001 by Raja Amin Khan. Extensive restoration work, carried out by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture Historic Cities Support Program and the Government of Norway, transformed it into a museum. Over the years, various development projects both within and outside the fort have flourished. These include a women’s social enterprise, the restoration of Altit Valley, the Kha Basi Café serving traditional Hunza food, an apricot orchard, and a new art center cum guesthouse. Historical tours are offered daily from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm. Access and location Altit Fort is situated on the edge of Altit Valley, near the confluence of Hunza and Nagar rivers, approximately 3 km from Baltit Fort. The main entrance guides visitors through a royal garden—an apricot orchard surrounded by lush green grassland—leading to the fort entrance. The fort offers breathtaking views of Hunza and Nagar from various locations. The galleries in front of the royal guest rooms provide a stunning vista of Altit village. While those hanging from the royal chambers overlook the Hunza River and the Nagar Valley. Similarly, the watchtower atop the fort provides an unparalleled panoramic view of the Hunza and Nagar valleys, making it a photographer’s dream. Altit Fort also offers a captivating perspective from the Karakoram Highway. Awards In recognition of its cultural heritage conservation efforts, Altit Fort received the prestigious UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award in 2011. These conservation projects focused on rectifying structural defects, stabilizing walls, replacing rooftops, addressing wood decay, and improving lighting. Altit Fort stands as a living testament to the history and culture of Gilgit-Baltistan. Its architectural brilliance, rich history, and stunning location make it a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts and travelers alike. Experience the grandeur of Altit Fort and step back in time to a

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Baltit Fort Hunza
Forts, Gilgit-Baltistan

Baltit Fort

Forts, Gilgit-Baltistan

Baltit Fort: Tibetan-Influenced Architectural Marvel Perched with a commanding view upon the moraine of Ultar Glacier, Baltit Fort stands as a testament to history. It offers a jaw-dropping vista of Hunza Valley and its intricate network of tributaries. This architectural gem, boasting over 700 years of history, was originally constructed as both a defensive stronghold and a symbol of authority by the rulers of Hunza. Today, it has transformed into a cultural center and museum. The fort is recognized globally and has secured numerous international awards. A Tale of Two States In a historical landscape where mountain kingdoms reigned supreme, Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral were comprised of several small independent states. The Mirs, known as Thumo in Hunza and Nager, ruled their respective state. Notably, Hunza and Nagar, two major principalities separated only by the Hunza River, engaged in frequent clashes, fortifying their power with imposing strongholds. The chronicles of history reveal that the early Hunza rulers inhabited the Altit Fort, but a fierce conflict between the two sons of Mir Sultan, Shah Abbas (Shabos) and Ali Khan (Aliqan), led to their separation. Shabos, the elder son, relocated to Baltit Fort, ultimately solidifying its position as the epicenter of Hunza’s power. In the early 15th century, Ayasho II, Mir of Hunza at the time, forged a matrimonial alliance by marrying Princess Shah Khatoon from Baltistan, a region often likened to little Tibet. The princess brought with her a retinue of skilled craftsmen who orchestrated significant architectural modifications in both Altit Fort and Baltit Fort, creating a harmonious fusion of Tibetan and local architectural influences that still resonate in these structures today. The fortified village of Baltit, once known as “Agaai Koot” or the Heavenly Fort, and the nearby Altit, initially referred to as Hunokushal (derived from “Huns”), witnessed a linguistic evolution as Balti craftsmen introduced terms like “Elte” and “Delte” to denote “Here” and “There.” These linguistic nuances gave birth to the names Altit and Baltit, etching their place in history. Turbulence and Transformation The 19th century brought turmoil as the Maharaja of Kashmir launched attacks, followed by the British invasion in 1891. These incursions inflicted partial damage to the fort’s architecture and ushered in political upheaval in Hunza. In a daring move, Mir Safdar Ali Khan and Wazir Dadu, along with their families and supporters, sought political asylum in Kashghar. The British, in their pursuit of strategic control, reshaped the forts according to their defense needs. They dismantled the fortified walls and watchtowers of the old Baltit village and Baltit Fort. Additionally, they imposed their governance by appointing Mir Mohammad Nazim Khan as the ruler of the Hunza state. Subsequent alterations by Mir Mohammad Nazim Khan included demolishing several third-floor rooms and adding new ones, lending the fort a British colonial aesthetic with lime wash and colorful glass panel windows. These changes remained largely unchanged until the fort’s eventual restoration. Architectural Marvel Baltit Fort is a remarkable wooden pegged stone structure adorned with mud plaster. Its interior boasts exquisite woodcarvings that have since become a hallmark of architectural finesse. The three-story edifice perches gracefully on a moraine, affording breathtaking vistas of the valley below. The basement of the fort houses granaries and storage rooms, supported by narrow man-made terraces that safeguard its ancient foundations. Ascending to the first floor reveals the main kitchen, a winter guestroom, a spacious winter house, a private meeting room, guardrooms, and additional storage spaces, all interconnected for seamless functionality. The second floor graces visitors with living quarters, a balcony adorned with bay windows, and a magnificent open terrace, crowned by a Moghul-style wooden canopy sheltering a regal throne. This vantage point offers awe-inspiring views of the Hunza and Nagar valleys.  Moreover, the scenery of iconic  Rakaposhi, Diran Peak, Golden Peak, Ultar, and the Lady Finger is simply breathtaking. The fort’s third floor hosts a modest mosque and a guard shelter tucked away in the corner, completing the architectural splendor. Restoration and Renewal The fort was vacated by the local Mir family in 1945 and it remained abandoned for years, succumbing to decay. Concerned authorities contemplated its rehabilitation. Mir Gazanfar Ali Khan II, a descendant of the ruling Mirs of Hunza, made a momentous decision by gifting the fort to the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. This charitable organization embarked on a restoration project in 1989. Getty Grant Program (USA), the Norwegian Agency for Development Cooperation, and the French Authorities donated to the restoration project. The restoration efforts culminated in 1996, meticulously reviving the fort’s former glory. The restoration work was executed with such precision that it recaptured the fort’s bygone grandeur. The Mirs lost their power in 1974 as a result of the accession of princely states to the mainland. The Baltit Fort is serving as a museum now—a beacon of preserved culture for generations to come. Access and Appreciation Baltit Fort, nestled in Karimabad (Baltit), was once the capital of District Hunza. The fort is accessible via the Karakoram Highway (KKH), approximately 100 kilometers north of Gilgit, the capital of Northern Areas, Pakistan. The fort commands a panoramic view of the entire Hunza-Nagar region, making it easily discernible from the Karakoram Highway. Visiting Hours: Summer: 09:00 to 17:30 hrs (April 1st to Oct 30th) Winter: 09:30 to 16:00 hrs (November 1st to March 31st) Dining Amidst History In homage to the legacy of former Hunza state rulers, who hosted elaborate dinners and musical soirees at Baltit Fort, it is now possible to arrange a dinner with light music for groups of a minimum of eight guests. This unique dining experience features traditional dishes crafted from local organic produce, including dried apricots and the oil extracted from apricots, walnuts, and almonds. A Legacy of Awards Baltit Fort’s cultural significance and meticulous restoration have not gone unnoticed, earning it a cascade of prestigious awards: Grand Award to Aga Khan Cultural Services (AKCSP) in 1997 for “Restoration and Re-use of the Baltit Fort” by PATA (Pacific Asia Travel Association). British Airways Tourism for Tomorrow Global Award

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